Current Issue #488

Wine Review: Hahndorf Hill's Austrian Connection

Wine Review: Hahndorf Hill's Austrian Connection

This little beauty from Hahndorf Hill Winery comes with with an Austrian connection. Zweigelt – a cross of St. Laurent and Blaufränkisch, developed by the Austrian Institute of Viticulture in 1922 – it is one of the most loved and widely planted of Austria’s red grape varieties.

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Down here we tend to be drawn to words and varieties that roll off the tongue; ones that sound all dead–sexy and sophisticated. Many of the German grape varieties sound like you have sneezed or stubbed your toe, but that said, once you have wrapped your vocal chords around them and perfected the pronunciation, they are not only fun to say but bloody delicious to boot. For the record, it is ‘TSVYE–gelt’.

Larry Jacobs and Marc Dobson at Hahndorf Hill in the Adelaide Hills are doing wonderful things with a handful of the Austrian/Germanic grape varieties such as Grüner Veltliner, Trollinger and Blaufränkisch and, judging by the wines in the glass, they are certainly well suited to the climes of the hills.

Vibrant light cherry red in the glass with fruit aromas of blackcurrant, red currant and wild cherry leaping to of the glass. There are hints of light spice, amaro herbs, tea leaves and fennel fronds along with a light wash of cassis–like tones. It’s spacious and airy in the mouth, thanks to the inclusion of whole bunches and carbonic maceration ala Beaujolais style. Think of Rosé with a little extra horsepower under the hood and you’re on the right track.

Lovely, juicy cherry and blackberry fruit abounds on the palate with a light wash of Asian spice and herbal tones and redcurrant on the finish. With a sapid acid line and its light tannin profile, pop it in the fridge and tuck in.

HAHNDORF HILL WINERY 2016 Zsa Zsa Zweigelt Nouveau

hahndorfhillwinery.com.au

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