Food for Thought: Wine

Wine for me is something that I may never truly understand or appreciate like others seem to.

I certainly know that I don’t quite get crushed ants, tannins or notice when a wine has been in French oak for more than six months and more importantly I don’t care to spit! That said, wine for me is an important part of enjoying food and when paired together can provide an entirely new experience. Due to my amateur knowledge of wine my approach is simple and inspired by my time spent living in the Mediterranean. All the regions of France and Italy have their own local cuisine that seamlessly matches the wine produced in that same region; an innate relationship that has organically developed over generations.

Living in the South of France I discovered Rosé. This blushing glass of wine was the perfect match to the local dishes. The local Rosé was perfect with the famous southern French dish, Pissaladiere. This French style pizza showcases the sweet onions of the south, the salty anchovies fresh from the coast and best of all the provincial black olive. Pissaladiere is a menu stable in all the restaurants lining the Côte d’Azur and served with a compulsory glass of luke warm Rosé.

The white wine, Vermentino is as crisp and pure as the ocean surrounding one of its biggest producers, Sardinia. The island’s energy feeds off the fresh seafood brought in from the local fishermen every morning. Seafood and white wine have an important relationship, deglazing a pan of steaming cockles provides you the perfect sauce for dipping crusty bread when all the cockles have all been devoured. You have to wonder if the anticipation of what the restaurants of Sardinia are serving, would be the same without the thought of enjoying a glass of the local wine with the catch of the day!

The heavy and rich wine of the Bordeaux region calls for heavy and rich food. An area famous for Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Sauternes; wines full of flavour and guts! The food also packs a punch, terrines, stews and copious amounts of intensely rich meat. Foie gras (goose liver) a speciality of the region and a personal favourite when seared to caramel perfection and served with sour cherry compote, the only thing that can improve on perfection is enjoying it with a glass of sticky Yquem.

When feeling overwhelmed about the prospects of matching wine and food imagine, research and embrace its homage. Transport yourself to where it all began and rely on the traditions of the regions. Drink Rosé with the light, salty and flavourful food of the south of France, drink white varieties with the freshest of seafood dishes and match heavy with heavy with a rich glass of red.

 

PISSALADIERE 

 

Dough
3 cups plain flour
1.5 teaspoons sea salt
2 teaspoons yeast
1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
1 cup of warm water

Topping
¼ cup extra virgin olive oil
6 red onions – sliced thinly
¼ cup of balsamic vinegar
2 garlic cloves
Thyme
Salt
Anchovies
Black olives
For the dough combine all of the ingredients in the bowl of an electric mixer with a dough hook. 
Mix on a medium speed for 15 minutes. You may need to tweak the amount of water added, the dough should clean the bowl as it is mixing; adjust as needed.
Move the dough to an oiled bowl and leave covered for 45 minutes in a warm place.

Sautee the onions, garlic and thyme in the extra virgin olive oil until soft and sweet. After 20 minutes add the balsamic and leave to reduce until all mixture is dry and sticky. Leave to cool.
Generously grease a baking tray with olive oil and push the dough out to cover the tray. It may need some convincing, give the dough time to relax in between stretching.
Spread the cooked onions over the base leaving a border of dough.
Slice the anchovies in halves and place in a lattice pattern over the onions.
Place the black olives on so they meet the cross section of the anchovies.
Bake in a preheated 180 degree oven for 30 minutes or until the base comes away from the tray and is golden brown.

Serve warm from the oven or cold.

twitter.com/annabelleats