I’ve been for a wander among the vines in this vineyard. It’s high, some 500m above sea-level and steep enough to give the vineyard staff a serious booty workout come pruning time. It’s a beautiful looking site; east–facing, shale soils with the right mix of loam and clay, it just looks like it should be special. It is. This is a wine that speaks of place rather than stylistic leanings, site over design. It is a wine of the highest quality yet nothing seems forced – it is very comfortable in its own skin. Pale straw in the glass with a rich canvas of aromas. Smells of stonefruits flow from the glass – nectarine, white peach, along with splashes of grapefruit and Meyer lemon. Hints of soft spice, nougat, marzipan, malt, struck flint, oatmeal, white flowers and dead sexy and beautifully judged vanillin oak. In the mouth it is all about precision and focus. Crisp and detailed with pitch–perfect balance between fruit and acidity. Again, stone– and citrus–fruits flow over the tongue, underscored by soft spice, grilled nuts, almond paste, oatmeal and light flinty notes. Light tones of clotted cream and dreamy French oak as the wine trails off add to the wine’s appeal. It is a lovely thing. Treat yourself. SHAW + SMITH 2014 Lenswood Vineyard Chardonnay shawandsmith.com