Review: Barrio Uno

There is a mystifying Indian restaurant in the mix. It has been sitting on the Light Square corner for years. It seems to have no visible means of support. Perhaps I am safely tucked up in bed when the joint goes off. Outside Barrio Uno is an agreeable street sculpture in the manner of Bert, as in Balls; Bert. It could be sole spermaceti from a colossal beast. It could be a conglomerated creative rendition of a gang of wicked staphylococcus aureus. No doubt you remember from chemistry lessons that golden staph looks like bunches of grapes. And bunches of grapes brings us to Kerry Flanagan. Kerry has an impeccable, adventurous, McLaren Vale pedigree. Now Kerry’s skill as a winemaker and restaurant owner, pizza maker and more has descended onto Waymouth Street, with a handy ground level car park next door. Have a look around when you walk in and imagine how arid the place would have looked like before the humanising hand of Kerry Flanagan. The time is ripe for restaurants that serve just one course. Deals can be made over half a pizza each with a few side dishes. No need for packing formality and three courses into lunchtime. No need to slosh back to work feeling bloated and blurry. On my far too enthusiastic visits to Barrio Uno I have seen a wonderful mix of customers. A sprinkling of power suits. One classic not quite black pure chalk stripe suit with the ‘dressed for firing’ scarlet silk tie carelessly tied in a perfect double Windsor. Inamorata, who mixes in circles far higher than my own, estimated a starting price for the suit, no trimmings, at $10,000, probably a lot more. All sharing pizzas like the ‘St Vincent’ with prawns, squid, fish and roast onion, lemon and parsley ($25). Not in the billionaire bracket? Try a ‘Galacia’: broccoli, green beans, mushrooms and garlic – $16. Try the simplest dish, pizza dough, still soft, puffed by the heat, straight and steamy hot from the wood oven, scattered with chilli oil, olive oil and salt. Or perhaps flat oven bread with herbs and garlic for $10. Or a mixed plate of charcuterie and cheese ($10/$18). My favourite from the 12” wood fired pizza list is the Corfu: tomato, anchovies, olives, onions chilli and capers. The wine list is as quirky as its maker. If the dessert pizza catches your eye maybe a Prosecco will be the perfect match. Gluten free folks are catered for. My favourite at the moment, but I am fickle, is The Constantinople: lamb, pistachio, feta, tomato, mint and yoghurt. Sensational pizzas. A wood-fired pizza oven that lights up like a circus tent. Get there. Barrio Uno 108 Waymouth Street Hours Lunch: Monday to Friday 11.30am to 3.30pm Dinner: Thursday, Friday and Saturday 6pm until close barriouno.com.au